Everything about Textile totally explained
A
textile is a flexible material comprised of a network of natural or artificial
fibres often referred to as thread or
yarn. Yarn is produced by
spinning raw
wool fibres,
linen,
cotton, or other material on a
spinning wheel to produce long strands known as
yarn. Textiles are formed by
weaving,
knitting,
crocheting,
knotting, or pressing fibres together (
felt).
Textile terminology
The words
fabric and
cloth are commonly used in textile assembly trades (such as
tailoring and
dressmaking) as synonyms for
textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms.
Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres.
Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding.
Cloth refers to a finished piece of fabric that can be used for a purpose such as covering a bed.
History
The production of textiles is an important craft, whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques. However, for the main types of textiles,
plain weave,
twill or
satin weave, there's little difference between the ancient and modern methods.
Incan Indians have been crafting
quipus (or
khipus) made of fibres either from a protein, such as spun and plied thread like wool or hair from camelids such as alpacas, llamas and camels or from a cellulose like cotton for thousands of years. Khipus are a series of knots along pieces of string. They have been believed to only have acted as a form of accounting, although new evidence conducted by
Harvard professor,
Gary Urton, indicates there may be more to the khipu than just numbers. Preservation of khipus found in museum and archive collections follow general
textile preservation principles and practice.
Uses
Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for
clothing and containers such as
bags and
baskets. In the household, they're used in
carpeting, upholstered
furnishings,
window shades,
towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in
art. In the workplace, they're used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include
flags,
backpacks,
tents,
nets,
cleaning devices, such as
handkerchiefs;
transportation devices such as
balloons,
kites,
sails, and
parachutes; strengthening in
composite materials such as
fibre glass and industrial
geotextiles, and smaller cloths are used in washing by "soaping up" the cloth and washing with it rather than using just soap.
Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as
technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (for example implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (for example against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and
bullet proof vests. In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met. Woven of threads coated with
zinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of "self-powering nanosystems" using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements.
Fashion and textile designs
Fashion designers commonly rely on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart from others.
Marisol Deluna,
Nicole Miller,
Lilly Pulitzer, the late
Gianni Versace and
Emilio Pucci can be easily recognized by their signature print driven designs.
Sources and types
Textiles can be made from many materials. These materials come from four main sources: animal, plant, mineral, and synthetic. In the past, all textiles were made from natural fibres, including plant, animal, and mineral sources. In the
20th century, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from
petroleum.
Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest
gossamer to the sturdiest
canvas. The relative thickness of fibres in cloth is measured in
deniers.
Microfibre refers to fibres made of strands thinner than one denier.
Animal textiles
Animal textiles are commonly made from
hair or
fur.
Wool refers to the hair of the domestic
goat or
sheep, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and the wool as a whole is coated with an
oil known as
lanolin, which is waterproof and dirtproof.
Woollen refers to a bulkier yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while
worsted refers to a finer yarn which is spun from longer fibres which have been combed to be parallel. Wool is commonly used for warm clothing.
Cashmere, the hair of the Indian
cashmere goat, and
mohair, the hair of the North African
angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness.
Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are
alpaca wool,
vicuña wool,
llama wool, and
camel hair, generally used in the production of
coats,
jackets,
ponchos,
blankets, and other warm coverings.
Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the
angora rabbit.
Wadmal is a coarse cloth made of wool, produced in Scandinavia, mostly 1000~1500CE.
Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the
cocoon of the Chinese
silkworm. This is spun into a smooth, shiny fabric prized for its sleek texture.
Plant textiles
Grass,
rush,
hemp, and
sisal are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibres from the plant are utilized.
Coir (
coconut fibre) is used in making
twine, and also in floormats,
doormats,
brushes,
mattresses, floor tiles, and
sacking.
Straw and
bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for stuffing, as is
kapok.
Fibres from
pulpwood trees, cotton,
rice, hemp, and
nettle are used in making
paper.
Cotton,
flax,
jute, hemp and
modal are all used in clothing.
Piña (
pineapple fibre) and
ramie are also fibres used in clothing, generally with a blend of other fabrics such as cotton.
Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as
silks,
velvets, and
taffetas.
Seaweed is used in the production of textiles. A water-soluble fibre known as
alginate is produced and is used as a holding fibre; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area
Tencel is a man-made fabric derived from wood pulp. It is often described as a man-made silk
equivalent and is a tough fabric which is often blended with other fabrics - cotton for example.
Mineral textiles
Asbestos and
basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting, and adhesives, "transite" panels and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets.
Glass Fibre is used in the production of
spacesuits, ironing board and mattress covers, ropes and cables, reinforcement fibre for
composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres.
Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of
cloth-of-gold and
jewelry. Hardware cloth is a coarse weave of steel wire, used in construction.
Synthetic textiles
All synthetic textiles are used primarily in the production of clothing.
Polyester fibre is used in all types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as cotton.
Aramid fibre (for example
Twaron) is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armor.
Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate wools, including cashmere, and is often used in replacement of them.
Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk; it's used in the production of
pantyhose. Thicker nylon fibres are used in
rope and outdoor clothing.
Spandex (trade name
Lycra) is a
polyurethane fibre that stretches easily and can be made tight-fitting without impeding movement. It is used to make activewear,
bras, and
swimsuits.
Olefin fibre is a fibre used in activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are hydrophobic, allowing them to dry quickly. A sintered
felt of olefin fibres is sold under the trade name
Tyvek.
Ingeo is a
polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.
Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.
Production methods
Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer
threads (called the
warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the
weft). This is done on a frame or machine known as a
loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanised.
Knitting and
crocheting involve interlacing loops of
yarn, which are formed either on a
knitting needle or on a
crochet hook, together in a line. The two processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with another loop, while crocheting never has more than one active loop on the needle.
Braiding or
plaiting involves twisting threads together into cloth. Knotting involves tying threads together and is used in making
macrame.
Lace is made by interlocking threads together independently, using a backing and any of the methods described above, to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand or machine.
Carpets,
rugs,
velvet,
velour, and
velveteen, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a
nap or
pile.
Felting involves pressing a mat of fibres together, and working them together until they become tangled. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibres, and to open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool.
Treatments
Textiles are often
dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. Coloured designs in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours (
tartan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (
embroidery), creating patterns by
resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (
tie-dye), or drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (
batik), or using various printing processes on finished fabric.
Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220CE in
China.
Textiles are also sometimes
bleached. In this process, the original colour of the textile is removed by chemicals or exposure to sunlight, turning the textile pale or white.
Textiles are sometimes finished by chemical processes to change their characteristics. In the 19th century and early 20th century
starching was commonly used to make clothing more resistant to stains and wrinkles. Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as
permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make them wrinkle free.
(External Link
) More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent treatments based on metallic
nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.
Further Information
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